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Weddings by their nature have rather beautiful background scenery. This scenery is cautiously planned and set up for hours before the major day. For these factors we want to include it in our pictures, that is, not just have our topic of the pictures lit up by our flash but every thing behind in shadows. This is referred to as the miner's light. We also don't want to be just shooting in highly high ISO's the complete wedding with no flash. This is a decent approach for certain photos, but a number of times this makes the photos appear like they had been cropped from a bigger picture. One other reason we don't want to use this approach for all our pictures is for the reason that occasionally there is fast action that we require to catch where we don't want the subjects face out of focus. So how do we shoot in low light situations and have the backgrounds visible, but our subjects also properly exposed, with out harsh shadows and in sharp focus? The answer is bouncing our flashes.
To appropriately expose your wedding couple, and not have your flash producing harsh shadows on their face, you want a larger light source. Remember, the larger the light source, the softer the shadows. That is why when you use an umbrella the shadows are so nice and soft, the umbrella is the source of light and it is a lot bigger than your flash. This is the way it is and there is no way about it. These little cups that you put over your flash do not make the shadows softer, they only even out the light so that there are not any hot spots. Other light modifiers you see do enhance the size of your light source. Examples of these could be the huge Tupperware seeking items you see, or else a massive bounce card. But wouldn't the shadows be even softer with a bigger light source? How about one the size of a wall or ceiling? This is what bouncing your flash is: turning the head of your flash so that the light 1st bounces off a wall, ceiling, persons, etc., before hitting your subjects. This increases the size of your light source. I like to bounce my flash off corners if doable, the corners where the walls meet the ceiling produces some rather nice outcomes. If you have an assistant, make sure your assistant is bouncing the light for you. Now you just have to be concerned about your camera communicating with your assistant's lights. If it is wireless, or you are connected via a cable, no predicament. If it is by way of Nikon or Canon incorporated program, you just have to have to make certain your flashes can see every other.
Now bouncing your flash to work in low light situations you do have to have to have your ISO bumped up to 1600. This is a big distinction from 3200 and higher, and with cameras these days, the grain in 1600 is not too noticeable. Also, you need to have to shoot two.8 to get the ambient light. This is the major bonus of bouncing your flash, besides having softer shadows, is that the background exposed based on your ambient light. Adjust your camera settings so that you are underexposing the ambient light 2-three stops for good results. This way, the flash properly exposes your subjects as they are the dominant element of the photo, and the background is also exposed, but a small bit dimmer and not competing for attention. Don't be concerned about your shutter speed becoming below 60 since the flash will freeze the action. If people today are dancing fast, and you are shooting the wedding couple and you have the flash bouncing to expose their faces you will see that the flash froze the action on their faces and that they in sharp focus. The many people in the background may perhaps be blurred considering that they are being exposed with the ambient light. This makes for some interesting and creative pictures. On the dance floor my setting could be ISO 1600, f2.8 and a 10 or 20-shutter speed. Please bear in mind due to the fact you are shooting 2.8 you could have to have to compose your images, or else pose your subjects, so that what you want to be in focus is indeed in concentrate!
Attempt bouncing your flash at the subsequent wedding you shoot and see if you like the results. Thanks for reading!
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